by Brian Weberg
What do The Knight Cap, Doe's Eat Place and Smoky's Club all have in common? Think state capitals. Think authentic. Think restaurants. Think meat.
Many of us at NCSL have been lucky enough to travel to most of the nation's state capitals, and when we're out there doing our work we like to eat. There's nothing more disappointing than ending the day at another Outback Steakhouse (with apologies to my brother who works at one…they do a FINE job…but that's not what we're after here). Anyway, what we often look for is something that seems less common each year…the authentic, local, quirky, friendly, unique and often legendary local steakhouse.
Now, some of us here are vegetarians and you may be too, but I have yet to discover a legendary vegetarian restaurant associated with any state legislature. I'm sure that day will come (probably on the coast somewhere), and it will be a good day. But for now it is about meat and potatoes.
You may be asking, what does he mean by "legendary?" Here's my favorite example. A couple of years ago at an NCSL meeting in DC, I stood in a line to shake hands with then-President Bill Clinton after he spoke at one of our meetings. As he approached me, I realized I had only a second to connect to this guy. I had just been in Little Rock the week before. We shook hands and I cleverly mentioned I had just dined at Doe's Eat Place in Little Rock. His eyes widened into a big smile and off he went into a discourse on the wonders of a little hole in the wall joint located in a not-so-pretty part of town. That's legendary.
Ask any Arkansas legislator (or staffer for that matter) who pre-dates term limits down there. They all have Doe's stories. Ask them about gatherings they've been to in the back room. You may or may not get all the details. Now, it's true that the Doe's in Little Rock is not the original Doe's, which does subtract a bit on the authenticity factor. But you can't argue with history. This place has paid its dues. Order a tamale appetizer and get ready for the huge chunks of meat to arrive.
The Knight Cap is another personal favorite. Located just blocks from the capitol in Lansing and down the street from the home of the minor league Lansing Lugnuts, The Knight Cap is tucked into a tiny space that's so dark inside that you have to pause to adjust your eyes if you walk in during daylight hours. But once in you are transformed. We're talking authenticity to burn….a combination of elegance and informality that is at once engaging and comforting. Here is a place that cares for its customers and for the food it serves. And don't plan on an anonymous dining experience. The place is so tiny and the tables so compact that you'll be next to your neighbor. Only the darkness veils your identity.
When in Madison, it's Smoky's Club. This is a hard core steakhouse. Now, I have to admit I have not been there for many years, but their website suggests that the place is alive and well. My friend and former NCSL colleague Scott Mackey once ordered a gigantic porterhouse steak that was the largest single chuck of beef I have seen on a plate. He ate the entire thing and walked out under his own power. Smoky's current web site menu doesn't include this colossal offering. Maybe the times have changed. Scott will be sad at the news. Smoky's is not a refined place but it is authentic, has a place in local legend and serves up a memorable meal. Be sure to order the hash browns. Oh my.
So what about your capital city? I think it's time to create the first ever directory of capital city restaurants for the traveling legislative junkie. Just one per city. It should be authentic, have a place in local and legislative legend, serve something that most people might want to eat and that they would want to return to with a couple friends.
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[Photo by Heraldk, courtesy of Flickr.]